Oh I do like to be beside the seaside - especially when it's sea like Belize!
A 45 min twin-prop transfer from Guatemala took me over volcanoes to the jungly swampland of Belize.
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| Flying over Acetenango volcano |
It wasn't until I jumped in the taxi* of a creole-speaking rasta that it dawned on me this wasn't Spanish-speaking; instead a good-old relic of Empire, as confirmed when our late Majesty's face was spat out from an ATM. In reality, with a large
mestizo population (ladino/mayan from Guatemala*), the country is a general mash-up of cultures with a predominantly Caribbean vibe.
*A quick word on taxis - on my travels, the anonymity of a taxi driver is not to be underestimated. Because I'm unlikely to see them again and somehow being in the confines of a car, means they tend to be fairly open about 'affairs of state' (if you know what I mean) - providing great intel on socioeconomics/politics that can be tricky to trust from hotel staff/guides etc.
** Relations with Guatemala aren't great as Guatemala wants its baby neighbour for its mineral, oil, tourism, sugar, banana and papaya export potential. Belize has become a major money laundering location as its currency is pegged to the USD and non-residents can easily get bank accounts here. Skipping Belize City (a bit sketchy), I took a b-line for the 12pm express ferry to Caye Caulkner (pronounced key corker). One of thousands of low-lying mangrove islands, it is one of the more memorable places I've been in some time. My first impression wasn't great - partying gap years, Texans hooking barracudas, trashy curio stalls and more trash on the waterline...
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| My hotel at the tip of the island where you could watch the sun rising and setting over the sea within 20 steps |
...But over five days I really warmed to this bizarre little sandbar that seems to self-identify as anything and everything. I easily whiled away the hot days pottering around by bike (no cars, just golf buggies and bikes) to find unspoilt sandy lanes criss-crossed with lizards and colourful birds, local fishermen gutting their catch, the island primary school at playtime and colourful shacks selling anything from Christmas decorations and bike spares, to shrimp curry and fry jacks (fried pastries with either savoury or sweet fillings - more on food later).
I never fully accustomed to the back-pedal brakes - along with all the other tourists toppling over when they meet an obstacle!
The pelicans are SO tame (probably not a good thing) and seem to love swimming with people (wish I'd got a pic of me with them!) or getting a laugh from an audience by landing on unsuspecting sunbathers or jumping up and down with delight when the banana bread man walks round shouting "bakery, bakery!".
Snorkelling with reef sharks and sting rays
The Belize barrier reef is the second largest in the world and snorkelling was INCREDIBLE. However, I felt SO seasick with the bobbing boat - the expression below is one of desperate nausea - I honestly don't think I'd have minded losing a digit to the circling sharks or rays if it meant I could get to terra firma! Oh and they feed the sharks - guilty tourist CLAXON#3!
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| BS (Before Sickness) |
Four wheels and four-legged friends
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| Biking down the unspoilt lanes near South Point |
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| Shade found! |
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| Typical street in the island's village |
MANGROVES are absolutely critical to protect islands from hurricanes, stabilise ecosystems and purify dirty water - even more so with climate change. So it was heartbreaking to see bulldozers clearing them for development. I'm tempted to buy one of the many plots shown in estate agents' windows just to save it! However, there were pockets of hope with mangrove nurseries like below.
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 | | Pervert in the shower |
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Spiny lizards enjoying the rays as much as me
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I want this resting place!
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Food glorious food!
The most common question I get about solo travelling is "but don't you hate eating out alone?". The answer is yes. It's horrible and you feel a sad loser. My strategy over the years has been to eat my main meal at lunch - and choose somewhere informal. Then buy stuff to eat in my room in the evening - devouring not only take-away salads or sandwiches but also whole series' of The Crown, Fool Me Once and One Day.
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| Typical chicken lunch - similar to Guatemala but with coleslaw instead of pickles and rice/beans instead of tortilla |
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'Boilup' had me salivating but I took a pass
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Swamping it on the mainland
I'm now on the edge of Belize City for a night before flying back to Guatemala tomorrow (for 1 night before Costa Rica Friday). My hotel is at the mouth of a river and while it's super hot and humid, I will not be taking a dip - see below.
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| Nada Nadir! |
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| Magnificent mangroves at my swampy abode |
Mini-videos
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