Week 1: Volcanoes and Spanglish in Guatemala

My 'wintering' this year is Central America. One month covering Guatemala, Belize and Costa Rica. I knew I would be barely scraping the surface but with only un poquito espanol (despite my best efforts over the last 6 months!) and increasingly reluctant to leave Marge the rescue cat with 'issues', I'm putting each foot forward on the well-paved traveller path (not just gringos but those making the tortuous journey from the South for a better life in the USA - if they make it).

After a long old flight (via Texas - where security scanner announcements were not about removing liquids and laptops but firearms from bags - no joke!), I arrived late into the bright lights of Guatemala City (literally - turns out they love a flashing billboard or a bus resembling a fairground ride) and jumped straight into a taxi to neighbouring - and less bewildering - Antigua. 

                                                                ANTIGUA GUATEMALA

THE classic shot - the puente was built when the tunnels connecting the various monasteries and churches were destroyed in the big earthquake in 1776

So here I am writing this a week later on the terraza of my guesthouse now feeling very at home in this (admittedly bubble-like) UNESCO-preserved town of colourful houses, cobbled streets and a seemingly safe, family atmosphere - a stark contrast to notorious Guatemala City but also to the real challenges of rural Guatemala.

Three volcanoes surround Antigua: Agua, Fuego and Acatango (photo is Agua). The town has been flattened many times over the centuries from associated earthquakes. 

 Even in a week, local tiendas and my regular mango supplier are now recognising me with smalltalk that I can vaguely engage in.here's an old Senor who lives next door and sits out on the Calle in his wheelchair catching the sun with his dog each day - we somehow manage some kind of convo (he saying something about what a beautiful day it is - and me saying something idiotic - e.g. when I realised I'd been talking about 'feeling' instead of 'sitting down')! I'm ok at understanding (it's way easier than in Spain!) but speaking is painful - watching people literally have to wait while your brain cogs turn - made worse because the people here are so polite and gentle (very different to the passion of Spain and how I imagined it would be).

Oh and who knew Guatemalans were morning people and go to bed early - I finally found my tribe!! 

Iglesia de la Merced - like other churches, its frescoes combine Catholic (e.g. Santos) and Mayan (e.g. coffee beans/maize) 

 symbolisms. The reverence is massive, as expected. One church I wandered into an old women was howling in front of a saint, while in another I could hear 'lively' conversation in the caja de confecion.

Antigua is full of language schools, with many of those on Spanish courses also teaching English to children. MSF runs the local hospital and there's a strong NGO feel. CLAXON#1 'white saviour' alert: but it somehow feels well-run here and not patronising. In fact, I'm seriously considering coming back to do a few months of intensive classes (inc family homestay), and also volunteering at the dog rescue (CLAXON#2). As a taster, I did two one-to-one language classes over delicious spicy Guatemalan coffee with an organisation called Los Ninos de Guatemala where people like me pay for classes that help fund programmes for kids. 

At my guesthouse run by the lovely Rosa - houses in Antigua are built Moroccan riad-style with an inner courtyard and each has a fuente

Volcan Fuente erupting (view from my guesthouse) - happens a few times an hour and everything is permanently covered in a film of ash (and my nose is always blocked!).

On a wider note, there's a new president (elected in January in what I understand was quite a shock result driven by gen-z voting via tiktok!), there's a great feel of hope in a country that's not been short of economic and political challenges (the age-old story of countries in the region and, for that matter, all less developed economies). However, whenever I'm in a country with good roads (ok they're all hairpin bends but the tarmac itself is all fresh and new), I'm suspicious - which foreign power is investing in this and why? (I now know it's Israel - no comment).

'Chicken bus' taken by people coming from villages to work in Antigua each day - named because people are crammed in like chickens and also because of the chickens on the roof destined for market. Each has its own name - like a ship. 

Cuarto de lavado - each village has its own communal laundry where women meet once a week to lava las ropas (and gossip!) - in Antigua (above) not used anymore but in villages (below) very much still used

LAGO DE ATITLAN

Alongside Antigua and Tikal (Mayan ruins), Lake Atitlan is in the top Guatemala sights. I'm not usually one for 'honeypot' places (hence I'm not visiting a single Mayan ruin while here, which plays on my mind a lot) but I took a day trip - 3 hours each way in a minibus overtaking on blind bends and very nearly vomiting. But on arrival to a lovely desayuno by the lake (typically huevos - always huevos! refried beans, plantain, local cheese and a piece of fruit). Met some really great travel companions - a mother/son from Michigen (intrepid travellers and we had a great rant about Trump and the state of the world) and a lovely girl from Spain, Maria who I was later to go to the lavendar farm with (see below). 

Panajachel is the main town on the lake which I wasn't a huge fan of - a real hippy/foreigner town but a fine if you look out to the beautiful lake!

I would never usually do a tour as such, but this was the only way to see how cotton is woven/textiles made/chocolate/coffee created. Cultural appropriation yes, but there's not simple answer to sustainable tourism

This is what I mean about the 'pueblos' - not exactly beautiful but functional. The tuktuks are great and there was a very amusing experience of five of us (Dutch, Americans and me) crammed into one cranking its way to the top of the hill)!

  

HIKING VOLCAN PAGAYA

Behind Volcan de Agua is Pagaya, which last erupted in 2021. It was only a day hike but the altitude and heat made it quite tough. Hard to show in pics, but the rocks were warm with steaming vents - hence toasted marshmallows.

 

10 quetzalesfor my stick was well worth it!

COSAS SORPRESAS

I discovered this lavender farm by chance and had a lovely morning here with Maria, the girl I met on the Atitlan trip

Los gigantes de Atitlan - El Tenedor cultural centre and restaurant above the town

Again, I feel uncomfortable with pics like this but I wanted to give an idea of the traditional dress women wear - it's not for tourists but normal and each village has its own  distinctive colour.

Intercropping coffee with another plant (not sure what in this instance but often banana trees) to provide shade - companion planting

 LAS COMIDAS Y BEBIDAS

Caldos famosos: pepian (stew made from crushed pumpkin and other seeds, plus cinnamon), frigoles (beans) and various other meaty caldos - not great for veggies but the sides are just as good - tomales (maize mash in sweetcorn leaf), arroz y picantes en vinagre plus coleslaw-looking stuff (not got as far as researching what that's called!)

 I'd enjoyed some tortillas at this shop and the women were more than happy for me to take the photo. Every neighbourhood (even street level) has a tortilleria. 

Crushing ice for granitas - I didn't dare try (still scarred from trying ice-based sugarcane in India!) but this is a much-loved drink with pieces of fruit, syrup and, weirdly, salt or chilli sprinkle (same when I bought a chopped up mango they offered with salt/pepper!) 

Pepian with tortillas, arroz y vegetales en vinagre

Pastel de tres leches - condensed, evaporated and normal milk - perfecto con cafe de guatemala!

 And never forget the ice cream van - these little hellado trucks are everywhere - so sweet!

BONUS MINI-VIDEOS!

Having made friends with two lovely Americans and a Spanish lady, our tuktuk driver found this as funny as we did!

Boat across Atitlan!